Wednesday, March 2, 2011

Taleggio-Stuffed Prosciutto-Wrapped Chicken with Tomato and Olive Salad


When you find solid good ingredients, I find less is more.  Someone has put a lot of care into making sure these ingredients exist, someone cared enough to sell them in their store, and you cared enough to seek out their product.  So, does it really make sense to then burry them beneath other flavors and ingredients?  Make these flavors the center of your meal.  Pay tribute to them and those that made it possible for you to have them.  In the Wellesley village we are lucky to have a few very specialized shops that provide great ingredients: Wasik’s Cheese Shop, where they claim the title as one of the oldest full service cheese shops in the country, and Tutto Italiano, where they have insanely good sandwiches brought to an ethereal level by the superb buttery prosciutto they sell.  Barbara Lynch has been serving up portions of simple dishes that play tribute to seasonal ingredients in her Boston Restaurants for years, and this recipe, one of her own, does just that.  The Prosciutto adds contrast in color and texture while the earthy Teleggio slowly melted in a bed of boneless, skinless chicken breast erupts as you cut into it, cascading down over the tomato and olive salad.  With just two star ingredients this simple chicken breast is transformed into something extraordinary.

Ingredients:

For the Chicken:

6 boneless, skinless chicken breasts (try to go organic, they will be smaller and therefore much easier to wrap)
6 oz. Taleggio, sliced into 6 pieces
2 T fresh tarragon leaves
12 thin slices prosciutto
2 T extra-virgin olive oil, plus more as needed    

For the Salad (optional):

½ c cherry tomatoes, halved and quartered
1 c pitted kalamata olives
4 small celery stalks, peeled and sliced thinly on the bias
1 bunch fresh parsley, stems trimmed
½ medium red onion, thinly sliced
3 T extra-virgin olive oil
1 T fresh lemon juice
Salt and Pepper to taste

Method:

1. Using a sharp knife, cut a 2-inch pocket lengthwise down the middle of the thickest part of the chicken breast – be careful not to cut all the way through.

2. Put a piece of cheese in the pocket, pinch the meat shut over it, salt and pepper the breast and top with the tarragon.

Taleggio
3. Wrap the prosciutto around the breasts, two pieces per breast.  Be careful to get your prosciutto cut in strips, not disks, it will make our life way easier than mine was…  If the cheese tries to pop back out, poke it back down with a finger as your wrap the prosciutto around it. 



4. Heat the oven to 375. 

5. Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat and sear the breasts about 5 minutes per side.  Add more oil as needed. Do not try to rush it, the prosciutto will unstick from the bottom of the pan when it is ready to be flipped - otherwise you will tear it and cheese will go everywhere.


6. Put the seared chicken breasts on a baking sheet and bake until cooked through, another 8-12 minutes (or until a thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the breast reads 165).

7. Let the chicken rest, this will allow the meat reabsorb the juices.

8. To make the salad: combine all the ingredients but olive oil, salt, pepper, and lemon juice.  Combine the liquid ingredients separately by whisking and then pour over the chopped salad.


9. To serve: place some of the salad in the center of the plate and then place the chicken breast on top. 


Monday, February 28, 2011

Cherry Wood Smoked Bacon-Chocolate Chip Cookies


Alright, so as you all know my latest obsession is bacon-chocolate chip cookies and last week I promised you I would try to prefect them – while I have no yet decided on the perfect recipe I have learned a lot.  For one – let the bacon sit in the dough for a while.  The rest time will soften up your bacony bits as well as intensify their flavor.  Also, the sugar used is important.  Yes, sugar is sweet and so are cookies but the role sugar plays in baking is more complex than that: it adds volume, tenderness, texture, color, and acts as a preservative.  I wanted fluffy gooey cookies so I used a lot of dark brown sugar which attracts moisture (more so than light) and reduces gluten content.  Because there is less gluten the batter is lighter and therefore will rise more when baked.  I know it sounds crazy, maybe it is crazy, but you seriously need to try folding bacon into your cookies – it is a surprising and wonderful combination.

Ingredients

½ c unsalted butter, melted and cooled slightly
1 c dark brown sugar
½ c white sugar
2 large eggs
1 t vanilla extract
2 c all-purpose flour
¾ t baking soda
1 t salt
9 oz semi sweet chocolate chips
8 oz cherry wood smoked bacon, fried and chopped

Method

1. Preheat oven to 375.

2. In a small bowl whisk together the flour, baking soda and salt.

3. In another bowl whisk the butter, sugar, eggs and vanilla together.


4. With a wooden spoon stir half the dry ingredients into the wet and stir until incorporated, add the rest of the dry ingredients to the wet and stir until fully combined and wonderfully sticky.


5. Add the bacon and chocolate chips, stir.


6. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least an hour.

7. Bake 12 minutes or until the center is set and the cookies are a deep golden brown.

8. Let the cookies cool on the pan for a few minutes before transferring them to a wire rack.

Tuesday, February 22, 2011

Natural Blonde Ale

Natural Blonde Ale
            For me blonde ales are a meh beer, something to turn to at the end of a hot day (although it is more likely I will reach for an IPA).  For some reason, however, this style has the reputation for being the penultimate American beer.  Blondes are very approachable (I’m talking beer fellas) and are often medium to light in body with a clear crisp finish and a medium level of hops balanced by a slight malty sweetness.
            The Natural Blonde pours a deep golden blonde with a quickly dissipating head that leaves rings along the glass as it settles.  I found that this beer, in particular, was a steady drink.  I did not become bored of it, my nose filled with the scent of ginger and citrus, nor did I feel the need to think much about it as I drank.  There are subtle notes of grass and a slight floral quality but in the end it rather fit the generic description of a blond ale only with more hops and gusto than most.  The light carbonation made the flavors sit high in the palate, elevating them above the flavor of whatever you are eating.  In its own category I would give the Natural Blonde a B+.   

Beer: Natural Blonde
Serving Type: Tap
Style: Blonde Ale
ABV: 4.6%
Score: B+

The People's Pint

The People's Pint
            The People’s Pint is a local bar/restaurant/microbrewery located in the charming town of Greenfield, MA.  They describe themselves as:

“The People's Pint is founded with a commitment to simplicity and a reliance on self and the local community. The Company produces and provides fresh beers, flavorful sodas, and great food in a comfortable atmosphere which encourages respect for people and our environment.”

Which definitely puts them on my radar.  I have been to The People’s Pint before, once when I was too young to drink, so I was very excited to go back and have the full experience.  The interior is dark but cozy rather than seedy.   In Boston this establishment would quickly turn into one of those dreaded hipster hangouts.  A place for young men and women with “ironically” matching oversized and unfashionable outfits (or is it fashionable since everyone is wearing the same thing?) somehow accumulate in one place to discuss their disillusionment with society. 

The Bar
            While there is a prevalence of plaid among the patrons the people darning the garments are more the farmer types, or townies,  or families with young children (yes, they even have their own play corner). 

Kiddie Play Corner
The customers are definitely a conglomerate or people touching on all walks of life.  This charectoristic makes The People's Pint a great family place, a good date destination, and an excellent way to unwind at the end of the day. 
Looking at the board behind the bar

In house beers, sodas, and beer cocktails
I notice that while all of their beer is made in house (they do not insult our taste by offering up pints of Bud Heavy or PBR) they also make all of their own sodas and have a selection of beer cocktails.  I decide to start out with the most popular brew: Farmer Brown, while I wait for a table.  A man with a chest length beard and knit ski cap pulls the tap and places the beer before me - without a word.  I obnoxiously take pictures of him.  He continues to ignore me. 

Bartender with a sunny disposition
The beers here are absolutely fantastic, they are unique and there is something romantic about drinking your beer at the source.  I almost prefer the wait, using the time to sip happily on my beer and watch the people around me interact.  Once seated I look over the menu. It boasts many American/English bar classics: hearty soups, wings, burgers, and sausages but there are also a few wild cards such as green Thai curry and peanut noodles.  The food reflects the kind of hodgepodge of customer base one expects here – the only unifying feature?  Along with good beer we get damn good food. 
I like a burger with my beer but I switched it up... a bit, ordering the squealer.  Get this.  The squealer is a burger made of Shelburne grass-fed beef and, wait for it, house-made bacon ground together served on a bun with all the usual fixings and chipotle mayonnaise.  I decided I should, since I am going local and all, wash down my burger with a pint of 100% local ale.  Nothing bad can happen in this scenario.  Nothing. 
A few years back I actually visited Shelburne farm, a delightful family run farm with all sorts of magnificent cows, chickens, and some of the best jerky I have ever tasted.  The care they put into their animals must translate into something special, and it did.  You have not had a burger until you have ground it up with bacon, do not try to argue this point.  You have not had a burger.  The squealer was rich, packed with flavor – yes the meat penetrated through the chipotle mayo and the onion and tomato and mustard and lettuce and ketchup and cheddar.  It left all of the condiments behind in an operatic production of flavor that left you only a little bit shell-shocked at the conclusion.

The Squealer: Shelburne grass-fed beef and house-made bacon ground together.
Served with cheddar, roasted potatoes and chipotle mayonnaise.

Steak and Stout Pie: A hearty stew of Shelburne grass-fed beef simmered
in the Oatmeal Stout with local root vegetables and a flaky pastry crust.

The 'no bones" Burger: House made veggie patty.

Special: Lam Dahl (locally sourced and pastured lamb)
After that burger I had the bug.  I needed more bacon.  More sweet, smoky, fatty bacon.  Well, the People’s Pint obliged.  I was one and a half bacon-chocolate chip cookies deep when I finally realized I should probably take a picture of these disks of gooey perfection to share with you.  They were positively Shakespearian.    

Bacon-Chocolate Chip Cookies
Expect many attempts to recreate these cookies in the near future. 
            The People’s Pint is one of those wonderful havens from the world, be it the quiet of the country or, as in my case, the noise and overcrowding of the city.  They remain true to their convictions and, because of this, they are able to share a wonderful product with their patrons.  It remains one of my favorite pubs and will continue to do so.  

People's Pint: 100% Local

People's Pint: 100% Local

            When you go to a brewery, you must try the seasonal beers.  Did you hear me?  I will say it again, you must try the seasonal beers.  This season at The People’s Pint they have a new and exciting beer called “100% Local Ale”.  The description reads:

"The People's Pint is super proud to announce our 100% Local Ale. It's made with Barley grown in Hadley & Wheat grown in Belchertown; both malted by Valley Malt in Hadley. Four Star Farms in Northfield grew the Cascade and Nugget Hops and The People's Pint Brewery mixed it all together to make Massachusetts' first 100% Local Ale. Please enjoy."

            And honestly, this green, locally sourced, way of thinking is something to be very proud of.  The beer pours golden amber with a short, quickly dissipating head.  It has a strong smell of ginger and lemon that carries over into the flavor.  It is crisp with a very strong wheat presence, almost yeasty.  The local American hops impart a zesty citrus flavor to this gloriously balanced and hoppy beer.  This is truly a unique and honest beer, but not very complex, a definite must try but maybe not a mission brew.  I give it a B+ for concept and taste. 

Beer: 100% local
Serving Type: Tap
Style: Ale
ABV: 5.0%
Score: B+         

People's Pint: Oatmeal Stout

People's Pint: Oatmeal Stout

           Another brew from the People’s Pint – their Oatmeal Stout is worth blogging about.  Oatmeal Stouts are a relatively new indulgence of mine, largely because it was a style not usually commercially distributed - but now more and more breweries are producing fantastic beers in this style.  This does not mean that it is a new technique.  In fact, oats were commonly added to beer in medieval Europe – but the craft largely died out until a resurgence at the tail end of the nineteenth century.  Oatmeal Stouts are traditionally big in body and unbelievably smooth due to the addition of oats, which also impart a smidgen of sweetness.  Other than this, however, I find that Oatmeal Stouts are more unique to the brewery and not to the style of brew – they are exciting because you have a general idea of what to expect (and no, Oatmeal Stouts do not taste of oats) but you are always surprised!
            People’s Pint did a good job on their Oatmeal Stout.  It pours a deep brown, almost black, with a foamy head that sits back and becomes denser rather quickly.  It has an interesting nose: butter and wood and an earthy sweetness.  The first few sips have a strong espresso and chocolate presence.  There are strong hops and toasted bread behind each taste and a smokiness that takes up shop in the back of your throat at the finish.  The carbonation is very present; it cascades over the top of your tongue and froths up into your gums.  This brew is primarily bitter with only a very faint sweetness with a buttery creaminess cut by a dry powdery palate: definitely a study in balances.      

Beer: Oatmeal Stout
Serving Type: Tap
Style: Oatmeal Stout
ABV: 5.1%
Score: B-

People's Pint: Farmer Brown

Farmer Brown Brown Ale

            The People’s Pint Brewery is a local brewery (local to Greenfield, MA) with a commitment to making good beer from local and traditional ingredients.  I went to their bar/restaurant this past weekend and had a number of their beers; I started out with their Brown Ale. 
            Historically ‘brown ale’ was a term first used in the late seventeenth century by London Brewers to describe a new style of mild, lightly hopped ale made with entirely brown malt.  That definition has evolved over the centuries to a modern definition encompassing ales including a sweet component, moderate bitterness, and a malty hoppy finish with low alcohol content. 
            Farmer Brown is mahogany in color with a short, off-white, head.  It has a pleasant aroma of freshly baked bread and sweet malt.  The first sip is creamy and velvety and slightly nutty with a lot of brown sugar.  As you continue to drink you begin to notice a definite sweet fruity presence – a faint veil of raspberry attempting to push its way through to the foreground.  Each sip brings a slightly different flavor, now hazelnut and almond, now vanilla, now just the slightest whisper of a medium roast.  This is an incredibly drinkable ale with subtle carbonation.  It is one of the most popular brews at The Peoples Pint; I know I am enjoying it, as each sip leaves delicate lace rings along the inside of the glass.  I would describe this as a solid fallback beer, one that would stand alone alongside a spicy or salty meal – I would not, however, add sweet to sweet.  I would give it a B.

Beer: Farmer Brown
Serving Type: Tap
Style: Traditional American Brown Ale
ABV: 5.4%
Score: B         


Thursday, February 17, 2011

Delirium Noël


Delirium Noël comes from the Huyghe Brewery located in Melle, Belgium; famous for their pink elephants and unfiltered goodness.  I am fond of their Delirium Tremens so I was excited to try their new Christmas brew.  The beer that a brewery selects as their “Christmas Ale” should reflect the holiday and the changing season.  It should be zesty and complex.  One should feel at home sipping it surrounded by mounds of snow, one should feel warmed by the beer, it should rejuvenate and invigorate.
This beer pours a frothy khaki head, which dissipates within seconds forming a light film over the beer, a burnt orange-amber in color.  Holding my glass to the light I see yeast particles suspended in the amber matrix. Delirium Noël is malty and smells of banana and dried fruits, notably prunes and apricot.  The taste is on the rich end and rather sweet, reminiscent of a fruit cake, with a tinge of anise and soy sauce at the finish.  The carbonation is lazy and the hops are not present at all, making this a rather drinkable beer despite having an alcohol content of 10% ABV.  For a Christmas brew Delirium Noël is lacking in complexity, I was bored and disappointed.  I give it a B-. 

Beer: Delirium Noël
Serving Type: 750ml bottle
Style: Belgian Strong Dark Ale
ABV: 10%
Score: B-



Beer

Poster in my room.
            Benjamin Franklin once said, “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”  Benjamin Franklin was a wise man; I think we should all take his words to heart.  I am by no means trained in the subtle art that is sniffing and tasting beer, but I do enthusiastically partake.  I will use the “beer” section of my blog to catalogue my endeavors to taste, document, and share as many beers as humanly possible.  As a result, please excuse the quality of the pictures in this section; some might be taken with my phone, some might be difficult to see from the poor light quality in a seedy bar, some might be blurred and distorted from the beer that has been guzzled.  But, I do this all in the name of craft. 

Rank System
A++ Best Beer I have tasted in its respective style
A+ This one’s to you Benny boy!
A Nectar of the Gods
A -  Limericks will be written.
B+ Damn Good
B Pretty Good
B- Fair
C+ Disappointing
C Poor
C- Well, it’s beer…
D Please pass me a chaser


Cheers Boston!  


Passion Fruit Cupcakes with Coconut Frosting


            Baking is way outside my comfort zone.  When it comes to tarts, pies, and meringue I am a boss but the prospect of making cakes or cupcakes keeps me up at night.  It is not that I don’t enjoy eating cupcakes, I could eat cupcakes all day, but ask me to make them and I break out in a cold sweat.  So here I am, facing my fear, beater in one hand and stack of measuring cups in the other.  I have my copy of Williams-Sonoma’s “New Flavors For Desserts” on the table before me, (I thought it best not to become too improvisational on my first cupcake adventure) and a large cup of tea to calm the nerves.  Resisting the temptation to discard all measuring implements I diligently followed the recipe to a T and found that yes, if you mix A with B in such a way it does produce a cupcake – who knew?  A very rich, very dense, insanely buttery cupcake.  A bit too rich for my taste (and I go through at least a stick of butter an evening) so in the end I fell back on some Trader Joe’s boxed vanilla cake mix… I will not admit failure.  Perhaps the cupcakes were supposed to turn out like that?  Either way, I now have enough cupcakes to put on a campus wide event.  Come and get ‘um ladies!  But, seriously, these cupcakes were absolutely delicious! You could even play with the flavor combinations: lemon curd with lavender frosting, coconut curd with a blackberry frosting – the possibilities are endless.   

Ingredients

Batter
1 ¾ cups All-Purpose Flour
2 t Baking Powder
½ t Salt
1 c Heavy Cream, at room temperature
1 t Pure Vanilla Extract
1 ¼ c Unsalted Butter, at room temperature
2/3 c Granulated Sugar
2 Large Eggs, at room temperature

or 1 box white cake mix

Coconut Glaze
3 ¼ c Confectioners’ Sugar
1/3 c Unsweetened Coconut Milk
1 t Coconut Extract

Passion Fruit Curd
4 fresh ripe passion fruits or ¼ c thawed frozen passion fruit pulp
(I could only find a tin of tropical fruits in passion fruit juice and ¼ cup of the juice worked swimmingly) 
2 Large Egg Yolks, at room temperature
1/3 c Sugar
pinch of salt
3 T Unsalted Butter

Garnish
Chopped Macadamia Nuts

Method

Passion Fruit Curd
1. Scoop the passion fruit pulp into a fine-mesh sieve and set over a bowl.  Press on the pulp to push I through the sieve and discard the seeds.  Measure out ¼ cup of the juice and add it to a nonreactive saucepan with the egg yolks, sugar, and salt.  Cook the mixture over medium low heat, whisking continuously, until it thickens and turns a bright orange-yellow (2-3 minutes).  Remove from the heat and whisk in the butter.


2. Strain the mixture into a bowl and let cool at room temperature for 15 minutes.


3. Put plastic wrap over the curd and refrigerate for 1 1/2 hours.  

Cupcakes
1. Preheat the oven to 375.

2. Place a cupcake liner in each muffin tin.

3. In a bowl whisk together the flour, baking powder, and salt.  Combine the cream and vanilla in a liquid measure.

4. Using a stand mixer on low speed beat ¾ cup of the butter and the granulated sugar until blended, then raise the speed to medium-high and beat until light and fluffy (1-2 minutes).  
5. Beat in the eggs one at a time – make sure to scrape down the sides of the bowl.

6. Reduce the mixer speed to low and add the dry ingredients in three batches, alternately with the wet ingredients in two.  Raise the mixer speed to medium-high and beat for 1 minute.  This aerates the batter.  

7. Divide the batter evenly among the muffin cups and bake until the centers spring back when provoked (about 20 minutes). 

8. Let the cupcakes cool in the pan for 10 minutes before removing.  Let cool completely on a wire rack.

Frosting
1. Using a standard mixer on medium-low speed, beat the remaining ½ cup butter with half of the confectioners’ sugar until crumbly.  Add the remaining confectioners’ sugar and beat until powdery (about 1 minute)

2. In a liquid measure whisk the coconut milk and extract to incorporate.

3. With the standard mixer on medium speed, slowly add the coconut mixture and beat until blended.  Raise the speed up to medium-high and beat until light and fluffy (about 1 minute). 
Assembling
1. Using a paring knife cut a 1 ½-inch-wide cone-shaped core halfway into the center of each cupcake; gently remove the cores and set aside.


2. Fill each cupcake with about 1 T of the passion fruit curd and replace the cores.


3. Frost the cupcake with the icing, just use the back of your spoon, the glaze is so soft it won’t hold it’s shape very long even if you do go through the trouble of making them look fancy.

4. Sprinkle with the chopped nuts, let set for 15 minutes, and gorge yourself.  

Makes 12 Cupcakes



Tuesday, February 15, 2011

Deuxave


            As a Wellesley College student I often have to rely on the somewhat unreliable services of the Peter Pan shuttle (also known as the Cuddle Shuttle in polite circles) to venture into Boston on the weekends.  The last stop drops us off on Commonwealth Avenue, just by Newbury Street and within throwing distance of Deuxave, an American Nouveau restaurant in the first year of its infancy.  Co-Owners Brian Piccini and Executive Chef Christopher Coombs have spent a lot of time and energy making sure they could boast a unique and alluring business.  Well, they had me interested. A glance at the menu shows a strong French influence, particularly in technique, and a commitment to local seasonal flavors, accompanied by a hefty price tag.


            Arriving at the restaurant the first thing to catch my eye was the sprawling bar.  The liquors are presented in orderly rows beneath a wall of mirrors framed in wood.  The “Boston chic” atmosphere is characterized by materials one would find at home in a country house but assembled in a way that is both surprising and bold while at the same time ordered and balanced. 


            I am seated at a small table by the fireplace, the high-backed easy chairs, once I managed to maneuver myself between the arm and lip of the table, are comfortable; definitely welcome after braving the cobbled Boston streets in four inch heels.  Looking down the menu I am impressed, ordering definitely proved to be a tricky business.  Alas, I pass on the list of offerings, that could only be described as poetry.  I spot my dinner, my Achilles heel: Bolognaise but with a surprising ingredient, foie gras.  I am intrigued, my mind is made up. 

A Duet of Prime Beef Tatare and Waygu Carpaccio
Herb Encrusted Wagyu Beef, Hanley Style Prime Tartare, Quail Egg Yolk
Petite Arugula, Escabeche of Hedgehog Mushrooms, Potato Gaufrettes
Cornichons Rosemary-Mustard Aioli - 14
            I begin my meal with a duet of Prime Beef Tartare and Wagyu Carpaccio. The Carpaccio is operatic.  It is wonderfully sweet and buttery and arranged across the plate as a bed for the tartare and accoutrement.  The dish is interactive; it stimulates conversation as one tries different flavor combinations.  The Escabèche of Hedgehog Mushrooms and the Cornichons Rosemary-Mustard Aioli are acidic and add a wonderful contrast in textures.  While the acidity is welcome beside the sweetness of the meat they go a bit too far as to overpower the delicacy of the Carpaccio.  Although the tartare tries to hold its own, in the end it also fell, choked.  Taken as separate entities both the mushrooms and the cornichons were delightful but were best eaten separately.  A fun and surprising combination was that of the beef tartare with the Potato Gaufrettes.  The latticework of the potato allows for your taste buds to pick up on the wonderfully rich and slightly briny beef before you bite down and the flavors: rich and briny, salty and sweet meld together in your mouth. 

A Duet of Giannone Farms Organic Chicken
Roasted Breast and Crepinette of Thigh, Soft Polenta, Braised Tuscan Kale
Black Trumpets and Sauce Perigeux - 22

Tagliatelle "Bolognaise"
Housemade Pasta, Veal, Beef, Pancetta and Foie Gras, Creamy Tomato Sauce
Aromatic Vegetables, Mozzerella, Basil - 21

            Finally my main course arrived, a perfectly portioned entrée in a rather cumbersome bowl.  The housemade taglitelle had a flawless texture.  The pasta was supple and full bodied.  The Bolognaise clung to the strands beautifully.  The texture of the meat sauce was good, just a step beyond velvety, but by no means tough.  The flavor, however, was not quite to my taste.  The sauce was a bit overly sweetened, tomato paste jumped out at me with a bit too much vigor, and the pork and beef were placed to far into the background.  Yes, the sauce was wonderfully rich but that richness coupled with a bit too much sweetness took a wrong turn at hearty and just fell flat.   


            Deuxave is a wonderful restaurant, with many varied exciting things to offer at a high but not unreasonable cost.  It is definitely not one of those restaurants that beckons one back time and time again, rather it falls more into the special occasion or once in a while category.  I was definitely enriched by the experience and would urge others to pass through the wine-framed doorway into a gastronomic experience so far unique to my Boston experience. 

Deuxave
371 Commonwealth Ave
Boston MA, 02115

(617) 517-5915

Monday, February 14, 2011

Lavender - Earl Grey Crème Brûlée


I love lavender.  I do not think a lot of people have tried lavender, or attempted to cook with it a whole lot – it is not an easy herb to find.  It has this penetrating and slightly sweet heady floral aroma with just barely a hint of lemon and mint.  For all its light floral notes it also has a slightly bitter aftertaste, which compliments sugary rich desserts beautifully.  No matter how you decide to use it, keep in mind lavender is extremely potent; a little goes a long way.

Uses for lavender:

- Add some dried lavender to a jar of sugar for a few weeks, it will impart some of its flavor into the sugar and then you can use it for baking, sweetening tea, or even in preserves.

If you want to use the buds, and not the infused sugar, try adding a few pinches to preserves or fruit compotes – it adds a sort of je ne se qua.

Infuse the flowers in cream (see Lavender – Earl Grey Crème Brûlée recipe below) and use it in ice creams or mousse.

Infuse the flowers in chocolate or syrups for a tasty snack or simple syrup to add complexity to your cocktails

Add a pinch to a savory dish (goes well with marjoram, oregano, parsley, rosemary, savory, and thyme).

- Fold it into a grain dish such as couscous or rice.

- Brighten a marinade or add depth to a rub and pair it with lamb, rabbit or pheasant (tea also does exciting things with pheasant or chicken).

- Put it in Crème Brûlée.

Divide the mixture evenly between ramekins. 
Ingredients


2 ½ cups heavy cream
½ cup (plus 2 tablespoons) sugar
A pinch of salt
1 ½ teaspoons dried lavender
½ teaspoon loose Earl Grey (I like Harney and Sons or Taylors of Harrogate)
8 large egg yolks

Method

1. Preheat the oven to 325˚

2. Bring the cream, salt and ½ cup sugar to a boil, stirring to keep the bottom from scalding.

3. Remove cream from heat, add lavender and tea, cover and let stand for 15 minutes.

4. In a large bowl whisk the egg yolks, just to combine.  A little at a time begin to add the cream, all the while whisking so that the eggs do not cook. 

5. Poor the liquid mixture through a strainer to remove the tea and lavender.

6. Place six ¾ cup ramekins in a baking dish and divide the egg and cream mixture evenly between them.  Transfer to the oven and poor enough hot water in the baking dish to come half way up the side of the ramekins.

7. Bake for 35 minutes, or until the custard gives a jolly little jiggle when you tap it. 

8. Remove from the oven and let cool in the water bath for about 30 minutes.  Wrap in plastic wrap and move to the fridge for at the least 4 hours.

9. When ready to serve, remove from the fridge, blot dry, and sprinkle evently the two tablespoons of sugar on each of the custards, tapping them so the tops are evenly coated. 

10. Using a culinary torch, brown the sugar, by moving in a figure eight – the room should smell nutty and glorious as the sugar begins to caramelize (See note). 

Makes 6 Crème Brûlée

NOTE: You can brown the tops with a broiler if in a pinch, but this is seriously a last resort – you risk heating the rest of the Crème Brûlée!
 


Saturday, February 5, 2011

Creamy Chicken Enchiladas



This week I deemed Friday night “Mexican Night”.  Why?  There really was no real reason; outside I could not live another day without having these enchiladas.  I have a special fondness for this recipe; it was one of the first dishes I ever learned how to make.  I learned how to make it from my ex boyfriend’s mother, an excellent cook and a Dane (I know that sounds weird – learning to cook Mexican food from a Dane).  Over the years I have made some small changes but the overall flavor remains true to the original, simple but rich.  Each new ingredient you add brings dimension to the aromas emanating from the kitchen, filling the house, and the rest of the neighborhood, with onion, cumin, and finally cheese as it comes to a golden brown in the oven.  I did not manage to get many pictures of the final product, as the group I was cooking for were all crowded around the oven door by the time the enchiladas were ready, they really are that good.  Give them a go; you will make friends for life.    

Ingredients 

3 ½ lbs boneless chicken breast, cut into large cubes
3 fresh poblano chilies (skinned and seeded, see note)
1 jalapeno (skinned and seeded, see note)
1 large tomato, peeled, seeded, and chopped (or, if not in season, one standard can  
     chopped tomato)        
1 T butter
1 white onion, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, minced
½ t cumin
½ c chicken stock
2 packages large flour tortillas
1 ½ c heavy whipping cream
2 cups shredded cheese (Chihuahua or Monterey Jack, the pre shredded Mexican four
      cheese blend also works well)
Salt to taste


Method

1.  Heat the butter on medium high heat, when it is about to brown add the onion and garlic, saute until they begin to soften.



2. Next add the poblano and jalapeno peppers, saute until they begin to release their juices (about 3-4 minutes).  At this point the onion should be starting to take on a golden hue.  



3.  Next add the tomato, cumin, chicken and stock.  Bring to a boil, once the outside of the chicken has begun to cook (turns white) reduce to a simmer and cover for 1-2 hours.



4.  Take the chicken off the heat and shred with two forks.



5. Clean the counters really well and put the tortillas out.  Put the mixture in the center of the tortilla and roll tightly.  Do not tuck the ends in, we want the cream to be able to penetrate the enchilada as they bake.  This will be very messy, embrace it. 



6. Pack the enchilada tightly in a casserole tray.



7.  Once all of your enchilada are made, poor the rest of the juice and any leftover chicken over the top.


8.  And then the cream (I actually use closer to two cups of cream).



9.  And then coat with the cheese.



10.  Place the whole thing in the oven at 350 until golden (about 15-20 minutes).

11.  To serve: add any combination of salsa, Salsa Verde, Guacamole, sour cream, cilantro and Pico de Gallo.


Enjoy!

NOTE: To get the skins to come off the poblano and jalapeno peppers easily first place them on a cookie sheet and broil, turning occasionally until very blackened and bubbling.  



Then put the peppers into ziplock bags, the steam will essentially remove the skins from the rest of the flesh.  



Once cool enough to handle you can easily pull out the seeds and skin with your fingers, leaving just the "meat" of the pepper behind.