Deuxave

            As a Wellesley College student I often have to rely on the somewhat unreliable services of the Peter Pan shuttle (also known as the Cuddle Shuttle in polite circles) to venture into Boston on the weekends.  The last stop drops us off on Commonwealth Avenue, just by Newbury Street and within throwing distance of Deuxave, an American Nouveau restaurant in the first year of its infancy.  Co-Owners Brian Piccini and Executive Chef Christopher Coombs have spent a lot of time and energy making sure they could boast a unique and alluring business.  Well, they had me interested. A glance at the menu shows a strong French influence, particularly in technique, and a commitment to local seasonal flavors, accompanied by a hefty price tag.

            Arriving at the restaurant the first thing to catch my eye was the sprawling bar.  The liquors are presented in orderly rows beneath a wall of mirrors framed in wood.  The “Boston chic” atmosphere is characterized by materials one would find at home in a country house but assembled in a way that is both surprising and bold while at the same time ordered and balanced. 

            I am seated at a small table by the fireplace, the high-backed easy chairs, once I managed to maneuver myself between the arm and lip of the table, are comfortable; definitely welcome after braving the cobbled Boston streets in four inch heels.  Looking down the menu I am impressed, ordering definitely proved to be a tricky business.  Alas, I pass on the list of offerings, that could only be described as poetry.  I spot my dinner, my Achilles heel: Bolognaise but with a surprising ingredient, foie gras.  I am intrigued, my mind is made up. 

A Duet of Prime Beef Tatare and Waygu Carpaccio
Herb Encrusted Wagyu Beef, Hanley Style Prime Tartare, Quail Egg Yolk
Petite Arugula, Escabeche of Hedgehog Mushrooms, Potato Gaufrettes
Cornichons Rosemary-Mustard Aioli - 14

            I begin my meal with a duet of Prime Beef Tartare and Wagyu Carpaccio. The Carpaccio is operatic.  It is wonderfully sweet and buttery and arranged across the plate as a bed for the tartare and accoutrement.  The dish is interactive; it stimulates conversation as one tries different flavor combinations.  The Escabèche of Hedgehog Mushrooms and the Cornichons Rosemary-Mustard Aioli are acidic and add a wonderful contrast in textures.  While the acidity is welcome beside the sweetness of the meat they go a bit too far as to overpower the delicacy of the Carpaccio.  Although the tartare tries to hold its own, in the end it also fell, choked.  Taken as separate entities both the mushrooms and the cornichons were delightful but were best eaten separately.  A fun and surprising combination was that of the beef tartare with the Potato Gaufrettes.  The latticework of the potato allows for your taste buds to pick up on the wonderfully rich and slightly briny beef before you bite down and the flavors: rich and briny, salty and sweet meld together in your mouth. 

A Duet of Giannone Farms Organic Chicken
Roasted Breast and Crepinette of Thigh, Soft Polenta, Braised Tuscan Kale
Black Trumpets and Sauce Perigeux - 22

Tagliatelle "Bolognaise"
Housemade Pasta, Veal, Beef, Pancetta and Foie Gras, Creamy Tomato Sauce
Aromatic Vegetables, Mozzerella, Basil - 21

            Finally my main course arrived, a perfectly portioned entrée in a rather cumbersome bowl.  The housemade taglitelle had a flawless texture.  The pasta was supple and full bodied.  The Bolognaise clung to the strands beautifully.  The texture of the meat sauce was good, just a step beyond velvety, but by no means tough.  The flavor, however, was not quite to my taste.  The sauce was a bit overly sweetened, tomato paste jumped out at me with a bit too much vigor, and the pork and beef were placed to far into the background.  Yes, the sauce was wonderfully rich but that richness coupled with a bit too much sweetness took a wrong turn at hearty and just fell flat.   

            Deuxave is a wonderful restaurant, with many varied exciting things to offer at a high but not unreasonable cost.  It is definitely not one of those restaurants that beckons one back time and time again, rather it falls more into the special occasion or once in a while category.  I was definitely enriched by the experience and would urge others to pass through the wine-framed doorway into a gastronomic experience so far unique to my Boston experience. 

Deuxave

371 Commonwealth Ave

Boston MA, 02115

(617) 517-5915