Craft: Chicken Stuffed with Tarragon (and How to Truss a Bird)

Chicken Stuffed with Tarragon

poulet farci a l'estragon

I love roast chicken, there is something incredibly natural about it. Growing up in a vegetarian household the only time I ever saw a whole bird roasted was on Thanksgiving - so the whole concept seemed rather scary to me. It wasn't until I was much older and decide I was just going to go for it on my own that I realized, there really isn't anything to be scared of. Cooking birds is easy. Cooking birds is rewarding. And no matter what they always look and taste impressive.

This dish is incredibly simple but deep, rich and flavorful. I guarantee people will be asking you your secret. The bird takes all the credit. I find that hands off is the best approach when you are working with a truly natural animal, everything should be meant to enhance, not to overpower or disguise.

Ingredients

2 tablespoons butter

1 free range organic chicken (3-4 pounds)

4 tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon

1 garlic clove, minced

Salt to taste

1 teaspoon olive oil

1 teaspoon dried thyme

Method

1. Preheat the oven to 400˚F (this might very, check to see if your chicken has cooking instructions on it. When purchased directly from the farm it is more likely that it will not)

2. Cut the butter into small cubes

3. Rinse the chicken under cold water, pat dry (remove giblets)

4. Combine butter, tarragon and garlic in a small mixing bowl. Season the inside of the cavity with salt and pepper, then stuff with butter and herb mixture. Truss.

5. Place chicken breast side up in a roasting pan and brush with olive oil (don't be shy). Sprinkle the bird with salt and dried thyme and place in the oven. Roast until done (this is when the juices run clear when the thigh is pierced). Baste chicken with pan juice occasionally as it roasts.

6. Let the chicken rest, under a loose tent of foil, for about 20 minutes. It will allow the juices to reabsorb and the skin really crisps up!

Notes:

You might have noticed that I didn't use a brine. I find that when it comes to truly pastured chickens the brine does not make a huge difference, instead I salt well. Pastured chickens are more tender and retain moisture in ways their poor industrial or semi pastured cousins do not. If you cannot find a truly pastured bird, I recommend a good brine for at least a couple hours.

The definition of "free-range" or "organic" is incredibly complex. Just because a bird is labeled free range or organic does not mean it lived the lifestyle of a forging nomad as one might hope. Many of these birds were allowed partial access to a small plot, usually in the last week of life. At this point many of the chickens will never make it out of doors. While these birds are better in flavor and texture then the industrial option they still fall far short of the pastured birds. If you get a chance, in grocery stores you might not, feel free to ask questions.

-Did the bird get prolonged exposure to sun, greenery, and bugs on a regular basis?

-Were the birds diets supplemented?

-If so, what did they eat? Was it local? Organic?

-Where and how were the birds processed?

I think this last question is an important one. The lower the stress when it comes to the slaughtering process the more untainted the meat, the more flavorful, and the more tender. In some states farmers are allowed to pass over USDA regulations and process their own birds, this usually means that it is done in a less stressful environment. The farmers get a chance to see their birds through from hatchling to gloriously deep flavorful roaster.

How to Truss a Bird

I by no means claim that my way is the only way, or even the right way. It is just my way, and it works for me. I am sure you will develop a way that works for you. Anything goes as long as the little ladies legs stay closed.

1. Cut away the first two wing joints (these can be used later in a lovely, lovely, stock)

2. Pass the middle of a long piece of string underneath the joints at the end of the drumstick (I recommend using twine... I used a shoelace once, I was desperate. It ended badly, just take my word for it).

3. Cross the ends of the string to make an ‘X’

4. Pull the ends of the string down toward the tail hooking them back under the opposite drumstick.

5. Begin to pull the string back along the body.

6. Pull both the ends of the string along the back, pinning the wing against the body of the bird. Pull both ends of the string tight, come on now, pull! Think muffin top. Anchor one string under the spine where the neck sticks out.

7. Tie a nice little knot under the spine, use it to keep your knot in place (make sure everything is still nice and tight, if it isn’t undo the knot, PULL, and re-tie. Cut the extra string from the ends.